Livermore Valley Wine Country – A Side Trip Becomes a Favorite Destination

I love visiting California’s Sonoma County and Napa Valley for all things wine. Both are a short distance from Bay Area airports and there are more than a few reasons to love their wines. But listen up, wine lovers…there are other wine regions, a mere cork’s throw from the San Francisco area, where we can taste and tipple. One of those places is Livermore Valley Wine Country where this summer, I spent a fabulous wine-filled thirty six hours with a merry band of wine lovers before we attended the annual Wine Blogger’s Conference, held in Lodi, California.

You’ll find this area, one of the oldest wine regions in California, only 40 miles from San Francisco, 31 miles from Oakland, 27 miles from San Jose, and 41 miles from Stockton. What began as a pre-conference side-trip excursion, Livermore Valley Wine Country is on my short list as a future destination with family and friends. Here’s why it should be on your list, too.

History Buff? You’ll Love it!

Livermore Valley has California wine history covered. Their first vines were planted in 1840; the region is lauded for introducing “grape varietals from France, Germany, Italy and Spain that have shaped the wine industry throughout the state.” Having recognized the similarity between the terroirs of Livermore and Bordeaux, Charles Wetmore, Secretary of the California Viticultural Commission, opened the doors to Cresta Blanca Winery in 1882. His dry white wine, winner of the Grand Prix at the International Paris Exposition in 1889, was the first California wine to win a French competition.

But Wetmore wasn’t the only pioneer. Carl H. Wente and James Concannon, both of whom established their vineyards in 1882, are considered trailblazers in the California wine industry. Both Wente Vineyards, the country’s oldest continuously operated family owned winery, and Concannon Vineyard, home of “America’s First Petite Sirah”, introduced the Chardonnay and Cabernet clones, both of which are planted throughout California. In fact, “80 percent of the 80,000 acres of Cabernet in the state can be traced to a Concannon clone.”

When you visit Concannon Vineyard, don’t miss the fascinating exhibit in their tasting room before, during, or after your taste of their luscious wines. Livermore Valley wine history is presented in a timeline surrounded with photographs and captivating descriptions from long ago. Our group was fortunate to be treated to a personal tour and oral history by none other than John Concannon and Karl Wente, fourth and fifth generations respectively, of their mold-breaking families.

 

 

The Weather is Stunning

My visit was in mid-August when mornings were chilly, daytime temperatures were hot, and evenings were cool enough to wear a jacket. Throughout our visit, the sun shone brightly in a cloudless sky. The average temperature in Livermore is 72 degrees with 15 inches of rain annually. Having traveled from Chicago, I couldn’t have asked for better weather to enhance this experience.

Vineyards flourish in Livermore Valley, too. The region may be only 35 miles east of the San Francisco Bay, but its geography, soils, and climate are unique.  A range of micro-climates allows vintners to cultivate different wine varieties. During the summer, cool air from the Pacific Ocean tempers the climate and fog moves inland to cool the coastal valleys on warm summer days.

The area itself is 25 miles long and 18 miles wide with nearly 4000 acres under vine. The valley is higher in altitude than those north of the Bay; the range is 340 feet on the west side to 1000 feet to the east. Gravel soils, with varying amounts of sand and loam, are found in most of the region’s greatest vineyards; because of the soil, vines are stressed and grapes present a concentrated flavor that I loved and appreciated.

 

Our first stop of the day was spent in the Ghielmetti Vineyards, a predominant fruit source for several area wineries, for a tour and tasting held under tents affording plenty of shade. Among others, pours of 2015 Sauvignon Blanc from 3 Steves Winery, 2015 Lola Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon and 2012 Lineage from The Steven Kent Winery, 2015 Speck Grenache Rose from Vasco Urbano Wine Company, and 2014 Grenache from Wood Family Vineyards kept our group cool, refreshed and ever so motivated to learn and taste more.

The Hospitality is Second to None

Following our vineyard tour and tasting, we explored “Reds from the Neighborhood”, a panel discussion held in the barrel room at McGrail Vineyards and Winery. Winemakers and owners from Bent Creek Winery, Darcie Kent Vineyards, McGrail Vineyards and Winery, Occasio Winery, and Page Mill Winery shared their stories, a sampling of incredible red wines, and their commitment to collegiality amongst those in the Livermore Valley wine industry.

Ahhh, the dinner… After a lovely evening walk through the vineyards at Concannon, we were treated to the Founding Families Dinner, hosted by John Concannon and Karl Wente. Held outside at sunset, in a casually elegant setting, we enjoyed passed appetizers (I could have made a meal from the charred corn and manchego crostini alone!) paired with a refreshing 2014 Concannon Vineyard Assemblage Blanc.

Salad of arugula with pear tomatoes, feta, candied pecans in whole mustard vinaigrette was delightful with the 2015 Wente Vineyards Morning Fog Chardonnay, a wine that I purchase regularly at home. The entrée I selected was the herb roasted chicken breast with mustard cream sauce made even more savory with 2014 Wente Vineyards Nth Degree Chardonnay…but I also had a glass of the 2013 Concannon Vineyard Mother Vine Cabernet Sauvignon. Of course!

Dessert? A glass of 2013 Concannon Vineyard Late Harvest Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc and berry cobbler with whipped cream were the grand finale to a perfect evening of friendship and newly-forged relationships. John Concannon and Karl Wente, dined at each table and shared fascinating tidbits about the region, the wineries, and their families. I can honestly say that I felt truly welcome, not only because they knew our group would share our experiences, but because they appreciated our presence. Each is proud to live in such a remarkable region and wanted to recount their story.

Genuine touches of hospitality continued the following morning beginning with breakfast at Murrieta’s Well Estate Vineyard. Carolyn Wente, our gracious host, explained that the vineyard started with cuttings from the Chateau d’Yquem and Chateau Margaux vineyards in France. In 1933, Ernest Wente, purchased the historic property; in 2016, it was remodeled and opened in July. Wines from Murrieta’s Well are terroir driven, limited production wine blends. With our eye opening breakfast buffet, we sipped The Whip 2014, a white wine blend of Semillon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Orange Muscat, Muscat Canelli, and Viognier, Small Lot Dry Rose 2015, and The Spur 2013, a red wine blend of Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec. Breakfast doesn’t get much better than this!

 

And the Wines! Distinctive, Delicious…and Affordable

Fueled by our tasty breakfast and wine, the satiated wine bloggers gathered at Wente Vineyards for the Summer Wine Aroma Discovery Session at their Winemaker’s Studio, a hands-on, interactive and educational tasting room. Divided into four groups, we rotated between an aroma seminar, black glass blind tasting, size and shape matters session, and wine and food pairing experience. Trust me, achieving a perfect score wasn’t as easy as you may think!

Our olfactory senses were highlighted at the aroma seminar where we were asked to predict the wine (2015 Wente Small Lot Viognier) based on its aromas. Next, two wines (Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon), each in a black glass, were presented; we had to identify the grape variety based on the aromas and flavors only. Following was a seminar to demonstrate how the same wine tastes differently based on elements of its wine glass. (Spoiler alert: Winemakers Studio 2015 Artisan White Blend tastes best in a Riedel glass.) Finally, we learned more about wine and food pairing as we noshed bread, cheese, and greens and tasted the Cuda Ridge Wines 2014 Semillon. When you visit Wente Vineyards, this experience is a must-do.

 

At this point, you’ve noted just a sampling of the wines I had the chance to sip and savor! Mindboggling isn’t it?? Naturally, I had my favorites (and you’ll have yours, too). Many of the white wines were not only refreshing but had that lip-smacking, food friendly acidity I love. The reds I preferred presented a unique palate profile – they were complex, had a lengthy, mesmerizing finish, and complemented our small bites or meal. All are affordable, your budget will easily accommodate plenty of wines from Livermore Valley; the region boasts over fifty wineries. I truly believe that the entertaining, interesting stories I heard, the compelling people I met, and the distinctive characteristics of the wines I tasted make this area very special indeed.

 

I’ll See You in Livermore Valley Wine Country!

From the fabulous weather to the delicious, reasonably priced wines, I’m already looking forward to my return. A quick drive from any of the Bay area airports, you may find me on the Livermore Wine Trolley Shuttle on a sunny Saturday or Sunday, enjoying the wineries in the area, chatting with friendly winemakers, or having lunch or dinner at one of the  area’s delicious restaurants…with a favorite Livermore Valley wine in the glass.

Take time to explore the websites of wineries I’ve mentioned, look for their wines in your local wine shop, and plan your trip to Livermore Valley Wine Country. I hope to see you there. This will not be a side trip again…it’s my next destination.

Cheers! ~ Cindy

Note: Many thanks to the Livermore Valley Wine Winegrowers Association for organizing such a memorable trip. And a heartfelt thank you to the participating winery owners and winemakers who not only shared their wines and stories, but helped our group of wine bloggers feel like part of the family. Cheers to you.